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	<title>Comments on: Test run: Minolta Autocord LMX</title>
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	<link>http://machineboy.com/blog/2008/02/test-run-minolta-autocord-lmx/</link>
	<description>Sven Mattis Folkestad&#039;s digital playground</description>
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		<title>By: Philippe BERNARD</title>
		<link>http://machineboy.com/blog/2008/02/test-run-minolta-autocord-lmx/comment-page-1/#comment-117</link>
		<dc:creator>Philippe BERNARD</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Dec 2008 10:23:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://machineboy.com/blog/?p=124#comment-117</guid>
		<description>bien belles photos!j&#039;ai un minolta autocord CDS,et j&#039;ai eu le même problème de levier de mise au point,il était complètement bloqué lorsque je l&#039;ai acheté.
Pour débloquer le levier,je n&#039;ai pas forcé!j&#039;ai eu l&#039;idée de mettre l&#039;appareil sur un radiateur de chauffage (pas trop chaud!)pendant 30mn,et ainsi le levier s&#039;est débloqué progressivement.Comme il était encore dure à manoeuvrer,j&#039;ai démonté le viseur,(4 vis)pour avoir accès à une partie de l&#039;hélicoïdale sur laquelle j&#039;ai mis 2 ou 3 gouttes de dégrippant (huile fine).après plusieurs aller/retour,le levier est maintenant très souple! j&#039;en ai profité pour changer le dépoli par un modèle avec stigmomètre acheté sur le site de Rick Oleson.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>bien belles photos!j&#8217;ai un minolta autocord CDS,et j&#8217;ai eu le même problème de levier de mise au point,il était complètement bloqué lorsque je l&#8217;ai acheté.<br />
Pour débloquer le levier,je n&#8217;ai pas forcé!j&#8217;ai eu l&#8217;idée de mettre l&#8217;appareil sur un radiateur de chauffage (pas trop chaud!)pendant 30mn,et ainsi le levier s&#8217;est débloqué progressivement.Comme il était encore dure à manoeuvrer,j&#8217;ai démonté le viseur,(4 vis)pour avoir accès à une partie de l&#8217;hélicoïdale sur laquelle j&#8217;ai mis 2 ou 3 gouttes de dégrippant (huile fine).après plusieurs aller/retour,le levier est maintenant très souple! j&#8217;en ai profité pour changer le dépoli par un modèle avec stigmomètre acheté sur le site de Rick Oleson.</p>
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		<title>By: Administrator</title>
		<link>http://machineboy.com/blog/2008/02/test-run-minolta-autocord-lmx/comment-page-1/#comment-113</link>
		<dc:creator>Administrator</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Nov 2008 07:13:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://machineboy.com/blog/?p=124#comment-113</guid>
		<description>Thanks for your comments and repair tip. I found that the lever moved quite well after being exercised, so I think if I keep using it it will work fine. It&#039;s a very nice camera, pity I don&#039;t get the time to use it as much as I should.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for your comments and repair tip. I found that the lever moved quite well after being exercised, so I think if I keep using it it will work fine. It&#8217;s a very nice camera, pity I don&#8217;t get the time to use it as much as I should.</p>
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		<title>By: Andy Andrews</title>
		<link>http://machineboy.com/blog/2008/02/test-run-minolta-autocord-lmx/comment-page-1/#comment-112</link>
		<dc:creator>Andy Andrews</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Nov 2008 03:37:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://machineboy.com/blog/?p=124#comment-112</guid>
		<description>Hi! When focus lever is stiff it is prone to break. Get a tech to clean and lubricate the helicoid mechanism and you will have a very fine camera. I have repaired several Autocords by bonding a stainless steel lever onto the broken  end of the die cast (Zymak) focusing arm with epoxy. I use JB Weld for this, which contains finely-powered metal to strengthen the joint. It has been tested to around 3,000 lbs. per sq. inch.  I reinforce this joint by drilling a hole in the remaining tab of the lever and screwing the two pieces together.  This fix should last for the life of the camera.  But you can avoid all this by having the helicoid cleaned and greased.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi! When focus lever is stiff it is prone to break. Get a tech to clean and lubricate the helicoid mechanism and you will have a very fine camera. I have repaired several Autocords by bonding a stainless steel lever onto the broken  end of the die cast (Zymak) focusing arm with epoxy. I use JB Weld for this, which contains finely-powered metal to strengthen the joint. It has been tested to around 3,000 lbs. per sq. inch.  I reinforce this joint by drilling a hole in the remaining tab of the lever and screwing the two pieces together.  This fix should last for the life of the camera.  But you can avoid all this by having the helicoid cleaned and greased.</p>
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		<title>By: Halvor Pedersen</title>
		<link>http://machineboy.com/blog/2008/02/test-run-minolta-autocord-lmx/comment-page-1/#comment-105</link>
		<dc:creator>Halvor Pedersen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Aug 2008 03:09:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://machineboy.com/blog/?p=124#comment-105</guid>
		<description>Heisann! Flott kamera! Har en autocord selv, men uten lysmåler. Fantastisk kamera! Det er en fyr på løkka som fikser gamle kameraer. Han er billig (350 spenn for opphengt fremtrekk på autocord, noe en bør huske!), så du kan jo evt. få smurt opp fokuseringen litt.

Ellers skal jeg fotografere på utdelingen til helgen, så jeg ser deg vel der? Jeg er han med Canonet QL17 G-III (I tillegg til 5D, da...).

Tvi-tvi. Heier på dere!

Halvor</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Heisann! Flott kamera! Har en autocord selv, men uten lysmåler. Fantastisk kamera! Det er en fyr på løkka som fikser gamle kameraer. Han er billig (350 spenn for opphengt fremtrekk på autocord, noe en bør huske!), så du kan jo evt. få smurt opp fokuseringen litt.</p>
<p>Ellers skal jeg fotografere på utdelingen til helgen, så jeg ser deg vel der? Jeg er han med Canonet QL17 G-III (I tillegg til 5D, da&#8230;).</p>
<p>Tvi-tvi. Heier på dere!</p>
<p>Halvor</p>
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		<title>By: Administrator</title>
		<link>http://machineboy.com/blog/2008/02/test-run-minolta-autocord-lmx/comment-page-1/#comment-26</link>
		<dc:creator>Administrator</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Apr 2008 20:27:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://machineboy.com/blog/?p=124#comment-26</guid>
		<description>Do a search on ebay and check the &quot;completed listings&quot; mark. You&#039;ll see how much they&#039;ve been going for and what shape they were in. I paid around Â£100 GBP for mine, which is mint and with a working light meter and flawless optics.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do a search on ebay and check the &#8220;completed listings&#8221; mark. You&#8217;ll see how much they&#8217;ve been going for and what shape they were in. I paid around Â£100 GBP for mine, which is mint and with a working light meter and flawless optics.</p>
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		<title>By: Jon</title>
		<link>http://machineboy.com/blog/2008/02/test-run-minolta-autocord-lmx/comment-page-1/#comment-25</link>
		<dc:creator>Jon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Apr 2008 20:13:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://machineboy.com/blog/?p=124#comment-25</guid>
		<description>Any idea what these cameras are worth? I have a friend whose father left her one, an Autocord with Rokkor 3.5 lens. Been used professionally back in the 50s (maybe 60s too) by a famous Austrian. You&#039;d think he&#039;d have chosen a Rollie! Thanks for any info. Jon</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Any idea what these cameras are worth? I have a friend whose father left her one, an Autocord with Rokkor 3.5 lens. Been used professionally back in the 50s (maybe 60s too) by a famous Austrian. You&#8217;d think he&#8217;d have chosen a Rollie! Thanks for any info. Jon</p>
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